A tribute to Chef Homaro Cantu

Hello friends, my name is Jessica Berson and I have been the voice of Bunny and Brandy for four years now.  The original concept of this blog was to keep behind a semi-anonymous facade, but something happened yesterday that for once requires my own words, and not that of my whimsical, fictional creations, so I hope you will forgive this (hopefully) one time only breaking of the fourth wall.

In the fall of 2009, a friend and I were looking for something to do on a Wednesday night.  Somehow, we landed on the idea of going for a drink at Moto (at the time, there was a small lounge space at the front of the restaurant), just to check out all the crazy mad food science happening there, like edible paper and cocktails in test tubes.  The guy behind the bar must have been amused to find two rubes like us sitting in front of him on an otherwise slow weekday night, and although we had only ordered one drink each, he chatted with us, fixed us up with some absinthe shots (in a test tube!), gave us a taste of some European gin, and even insisted we try a dessert before we left, a chocolate sphere in the shape of a tiny cartoon bomb with a light-able marshmallow wick and a liquefied graham cracker center.  It was an amazing night for two girls who were barely making ends meat while working at a famous Chicago comedy theater.

So elated was I that we had been treated so well that I went home and tweeted Moto's chef, Homaro Cantu, that although I could never hope to afford dinner at his restaurant, I thoroughly enjoyed my brief time there, where his staff were second to none.  Almost right away, I got a DM back from him offering me something extraordinary: a dinner at Moto on his dime in exchange for writing about the experience on social media.  I broke into tears and called my mother.  I felt so lucky that I actually went out and bought a lottery ticket that day.

A few months later, my friend and I were treated to the dining experience of a life time.  We were presented with thirteen courses in total as well as wine pairings and a tour of the kitchen by Moto's future executive chef, Richie Farina.  I wore a dress I'd bought for about $25 from Target especially for the occasion and had lived for a week on egg noodles and frozen vegetables so that I could afford to leave a tip.  As I had told the Chef, at that time in my life, I never thought there was a chance of me being able to have a night like that, a meal like that, and I wouldn't have without the generosity of a man who knew what it was like to be living on the edge while yearning for much more.

That night in June of 2010, a seed was planted and took hold, which would eventually bloom into the founding of this blog in October of that year.  Along with my photographer friend, we decided on brunch as a way to sample Chicago's culinary scene without breaking the bank, as brunch tends to be cheaper than dinner.  When we set up our rating system, we decided to judge every meal on a curve, as compared to the single greatest meal of our lives, which is why we have always used a scale of 1-5 M's to define our idea of perfection (M for "Moto" of course).

As my blog blossomed and grew with my changing life style, Chef Cantu was still there helping me and inspiring me.  I was there with friends for one of the very first dinners at ING, returning again when the miracle berry dinners started, and then being invited once more when the theme dinners entered the space.  My day job circumstances changed and I was able to take my mother to dinner at ING for Christmas for a few years, a tradition she came to look to as the greatest culinary experiences of her life.  I was even invited to guest chef at ING one afternoon, where a staff of patient and polite professional chefs smiled on as I mangled some hard boiled duck eggs and desperately tried to learn how to plate with a pair of tweezers.  Chef Cantu allowed me to reprint two recipes from his amazing Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook on this blog.  He even personally promoted my blog, posting links to it on his social media accounts, which was an amazing boost for me in the eternal battle of getting one's content noticed in the haystack that is the internet.

Yesterday, Chef Homaro Cantu passed away.  I cannot adequately express my devastation at this news.  Although I only met Chef Cantu a few times in person, I always felt as if he was the guardian angel of this blog, a silly little website which gave me the creative outlet I needed to stay sane while working a necessary but not unpleasant day job.  In fact, I have kept the paper version of the menu from my dinner at Moto on my desk since that day so that  I could always remember what had inspired this unexpected, yet joyful and fulfilling part of my life.  I will never forget all of the kindnesses extended to me by Homaro Cantu, a virtual stranger who changed the course of my life in ways he will never know.  Thank you Chef, thank you for the greatest meal of my life, for showing me how food can truly be elevated to art, and for inspiring me to do what makes me happy.  Your spirit of kindness and generosity will never be forgotten and the legacy of talent you leave behind will continue to inspire Chicago and the world for countless decades to come.

My thoughts are with his family and friends at this difficult time.  I encourage all of Chicago's food community to join me in contributing a donation in his honor to The Trotter Project.

From the Kitchens of Bunny and Brandy

Greetings football fans!  Its time for Bunny and Brandy's annual Superbowl Recipe spectacular!  This year we have something very special.  You may have noticed by now that Our Ladies harbor a soft spot for everything Homaro Cantu does, including his twin restaurants on Fulton Market, MOTO and ING.  Recently, Chef Cantu has premiered his very first cookbook, but as can be expected with a mad scientist such as he, this cookbook is not your ordinary cookbook.  This is the Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook, so named because all of its recipes have been created completely free of refined sugar and are meant to be enhanced by the use of the Miracle Berry, a small red berry from West Africa that resembles a cranberry and does something truly amazing; it makes sour things taste sweet.  Chef Cantu's favorite trick is to have his diners take a taste of pure lemon, then eat a miracle berry (or some powder made from the berry) and then have them taste the lemon again, only to find that it has turned into instant lemonade.  Check out this recent clip of Chef Cantu on Good Morning America:




Being absolutely fascinated by the concept of "flavor tripping" we asked Chef Cantu if he might be willing to let us give our readers a little sneak peek at what exactly these recipes might look like, and much to our surprise, he said yes (honestly, the man will agree to anything on Twitter)!  So after careful consideration, we present you with the following.

*Links to the cookbook, ING Restaurant, where to get miracle berries, and more provided at the end of this post!

Blackberry Ricotta Tarts
These cheesy little pastries are just the thing for a sweet after dinner bite, or a first thing in the morning indulgence.  Because of the purple berries and golden phyllo dough crust, we thought these would be the perfect thing for any Baltimore Ravens fans at your pre-Super Bowl brunch.  Brandy found that the subtle orange flavor made these tarts lovely even without the miracle berry, but with it they became more decedent and rich.

• 1/2 cup low-fat ricotta cheese
• Canola oil spray
• 5 sheets phyllo dough, thawed overnight in a refrigerator
• 2 tablespoons of unslated butter or margarine, melted
• 4 ounces reduced fat cream cheese (1/2 cup)
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• pinch of ground nutmeg
• 2 cups fresh blackberries
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

     Drain the ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer for 20 minutes.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spray six 3 inch tart pans with removable bottoms with canola oil.  

     With the phyllo sheets in a stack, trace six squares (3 squares across and 2 squares verticle).  Using a sharp knife, cut through all 5 sheets of dough along the traced lines.  Line each tart pan with 5 sheets of dough, lightly brushing melted butter between each layer.  Trim the edges of the dough flush with the top of the pans.

     In a bowl, combine cream cheese, ricotta (discard the whey), honey, egg, orange zest, vanilla, and nutmeg.  Beat with an electric mixer until smooth.  Pour an equal amount of filling into each tart pan.

     Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.  Let the tarts cool for a minutes or two.  Arrange the berries on the top, and drizzle a little lemon juice over the fruit before serving.  When you are ready to eat, let the miracle berry tablet dissolve on your tongue and then enjoy the dish.

     Replacing 1/2 cup of sugar with 1/4 cup of honey and the sweetness from the berry saves 22 calories per serving

Sweet Butternut Squash Risotto
The reddish golden color of the squash in this dish, plus the fact that every one knows rice is the perfect San Fransico treat, makes this sweet risotto a wonderful option for the 49ers fans at your get together.  Brandy loved this recipe as is for a slightly sweet take on a traditional risotto, or with miracle berry to make it more along the lines of a rice pudding.  Chef Cantu suggests serving this with French Toast sticks to imitate garlic bread.

• 3 cups butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 cups Arborio rice
• 2 cups apple juice (natural, sugar free)
• 1 1/2 cups water
• pinch of salt
• 3 ounces fresh goat cheese (about 3/4 cup)

     Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Toss the squash with the olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet.  Roast for 30 minutes, turning once halfway through cooking.  Squash should be fork tender when done.

     Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a skillet.  Stir in the rice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.  Combine apple juice and water and slowly add, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently and allowing all the liquid to be absorbed before adding more.  Continue cooking until the rice is al dente.  Stir in the cream cheese and season with a pinch of salt.

     After the squash has been cooking for about 25 minutes, crumble the goat cheese into a small baking dish and warm in the oven for 5 minutes, or until the cheese starts to melt and brown along the edges.

     Mash half of the squash and stir into the risotto.  Ladle the risotto into bowls, and top with remaining squash cubes and melted goat cheese.  When you are ready to eat, let the miracle berry tablet dissolve on your tongue and then enjoy the dish.

     Replacing 2 tablespoons of packed brown sugar and 2 tablespoons of sugar with the sweetness from the berry saves 34 calories per serving.

Order your own Miracle Berry Tablets

The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook

ING, the world's only Miracle Berry restaurant

Chef Cantu's Facebook page

Cooking Under Pressue Kickstarter Campaign

Nightmare Before Christmas: Guest Cheffing at ING

Twas a few weeks before Christmas
And all through the city
People were filled with holiday spirit
Except for one little old bitty.

With friends scattered to the wind
Brandy felt lonely.
"What I need's a jet," she thought,
"A private one...if only."

"I'd love to join in with
All this Christmas cheer,
But Chicago's for the young,
As I've learned over the years.

"I can't go to the zoo,"
Brandy thought aloud,
"The lights are too bright
And the children too loud.

"I can't go to Kindlemart
Where the tourists all bunch.
Oh, if only I could convince
Homaro Cantu to serve brunch!"

She puzzled and puzzed,
'Till she remembered a post...
Had she seen it on Facebook,
Or perhaps a Twitter riposte?

"Need help in the kitchens?"
She tweeted ING one day
"I'm bored and I want to
Learn how to filet."

Miracle of miracles,
She got a reply!
"How's about Saturday?
Feel free to come by!"

And so to ING she did ride
To help them prepare
Their seasonal menu
Themed on Tim Burton's Nightmare

She was dressed to the nines
In her shabby-chef-chic best
And was given a white coat
To fit in with the rest.

They served her a staff meal
Home made earlier that day
She broke bread with the chefs
While chatting away.

Then off to the kitchen
To start up the prep
They built every dish
Step by detailed step.

She watched them braise octopus
For a dramatic first dish
With smoke, mushrooms, and bao bun
It was simply delish!

A fall flavored offering
Was plated up next
Three bits of sweet potato
With flavors complex.

Then came a skeletal hand
Which held some pork belly
"Well that's something you'd never see
At a butcher or deli!"

A beaker of soup topped with
Root vegetable chip
Made a warm, spicy mix
For Brandy to sip.

A crunchy frog's leg
And the meat of an ox
Wasn't her favorite
But was out of the box!

She helped peel the duck eggs
For a deviled delight
The first part of five holidays
Each distilled to one bite.

A sour snowman
Made of limes and some gin
Turned sweet with a miracle berry,
To make dessert free of sin!

A small fire was lit
With chestnuts and spices
To enhance bread pudding and ice cream
One of Brandy's favorite vices.

Death by chocolate was next
In the form of a casket
Gingerbread and mulberry
Were heaven in a hand basket.

Lastly more chocolate
But gelled with persimmons
All wrapped up like presents
With edible ribbons.

Let's not forget
The beverages served
Like hard cider with tea
Or mix your own eggnog (the nerve!)

By the end of the day
Poor Brandy was stuffed
But new friends had been made
And for her, that's enough.

And so back outside
To the let real chefs start service
(They were shockingly organized
And not at all nervous)
.
"At least if the world ends,"
She thought with a smile,
"I'll have had a nice dinner
That was certainly worthwhile."

And you too, dear reader
Can sample these treats
For just one more weekend,
So get out there and eat!

Postcards from Bunny

Greetings dear readers and Happy Pride Weekend to all the brunch aficionados of Chicago!  As Pride weekend is one of the most brunch-tastic holidays of the year, we hope you will peruse our archives to find a great restaurant at which you and yours can enjoy a wonderful meal before the parade.

In the meantime, we've had a few little blips from Bunny (who is currently celebrating Chicago Pride at Rainbow Falls in Hawaii).  First up is this spectacular event at one of Bunny and Brandy's favorite Chicago eateries, ING, sponsored by the wonderful people at Chicago Foodies:

Chicago Foodies Unique Dinner Series: “A Lifetime of Guilty Pleasure” CHICAGO, IL: June 19th, 2012--  The foodie culture in Chicago is constantly evolving as chefs and restaurants focus efforts on more exciting and original dishes, leaving Chicago Foodies to ask: What was your guilty pleasure when you were 10? What will it be when you're 80?

On Saturday, June 30th Chicago Foodies (chicagofoodies.com) will host the 2nd event in its Unique Dinner Series, “A Lifetime of Guilty Pleasures” at iNG Restaurant (951 West Fulton Market). Chef Homaru Cantu will lead diners through a six-course journey of guilty pleasures from infancy to maturity, demonstrating the range and depth of his menu and broadening the palette's of fine-Chicago diners.

“The Unique Dinner Series gives chefs creative license to take risks that they would not otherwise take at their restaurants,” said Chicago Foodies founder and editor-in-chief Josh Brusin. “Chefs are challenged to step outside of the box, resulting in a wildly innovative culinary experience.”
Earlier this year, Chicago Foodies kicked-off the series at Moto with "16 Courses of Black" prepared by Cantu and his team, including Ben Roche and Top Chef contestants Chris Jones and Ritchie Farina. Twenty-four diners experienced a progression of flavors and textures - all in achromatic black.

“It’s about as extreme as high-end dining gets,” said Chef Cantu.

“A Lifetime of Guilty Pleasures” is limited to 36 guests. For reservations, email your request to: RSVP@chicagofoodies.com. Tickets are $100 per person.
When:
Saturday June 30th
6pm

Where:
iNG Restaurant
951 West Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 60607

__________________________________________________________________________

Our other little tidbit is some exciting news from our good friends at Robert Mondavi Private Selection:

Discover the Central Coast with Robert Mondavi Private Selection Robert Mondavi Private Selection is kicking off summer by taking consumers on a virtual tour of California’s Central Coast.  Breaking the perception that great American wine only comes from Napa Valley, wine industry leader Robert Mondavi Private Selection puts the California Central Coast appellation on the map.  Spanning from Santa Cruz County to the Santa Barbara County, the appellation represents a region which Private Selection is proud to source their grapes from.  

Through the use of social media channels including Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and YouTube, Robert Mondavi Private Selection will discover and share hidden gems of the Central Coast, showcasing the ‘best of’ landmarks ranging from Hearst Castle, to cafes and diners, bed & breakfasts, antique shops, vintage clothing stores, and other favorites most commonly known only to locals.  These ‘locals-only’ hideouts are pure and true to California’s Central Coast culture as is Private Selection.  Robert Mondavi Private Selection sources 100% of their grapes from the region’s growers – a characteristic unique to the brand and one which sets it apart from super premium category competitors. 

The allure of the California coast was obvious to Robert Mondavi who believed that wine can enhance any meal and be enjoyed by everyone.  The Central Coast region holds tremendous varietal quality and versatility that could be used by Mr. Mondavi as a winemaker.  The result: high quality, affordable fine wine born of the best of California’s diverse growing regions.  The digital tour stops at some of the least expected businesses and locations further proving that high quality food, wine, and fun doesn’t have to come at a high price.  

Launching at a time when gas prices might deter folks from taking their annual summer vacations, an event that two thirds of Americans generally take, the Robert Mondavi Private Selection Central Coast tour kicks off north of Santa Cruz and heads south through Monterey Bay and San Luis Obispo.  The tour wraps up in late August in the Santa Barbara County. 

Food and wine enthusiasts are encouraged to check the Robert Mondavi Private Selection Facebook page daily for updates including recipes, interesting Central Coast information, and educational messaging about the winemaking and tasting process.  Readers should also stay tuned to Pinterest for contest opportunities.

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Facebook: www.facebook.com/robertmondaviprivateselection
Twitter: https://twitter.com/robertmondavips
Pinterest: http://pinterest.com/robertmondavips
YouTube: www.youtube.com/robertmondavips
Official website: http://www.robertmondavi.com/rmps

ING or Very Ing-teresting

The Slow and Savory Review

Let us address the elephant in the room straight away.  No, Our Ladies are not reviewing brunch this week.  This is a special, first time ever dinner review of ING, a new Japanese themed casual molecular dining experience restaurant in the meat packing district of Fulton Market.  The brain child of Moto's Homaro Cantu and Executive Chef Thomas Bowman (who was head chef to ING's previous incarnation, Otom), ING only just opened officially at the beginning of March and has been creating quite the stir with such oddities as hand pulled "infinity" noodles, origami menus, and house made beers, brewed in "nano" batches with unique flavors like curry IPA or coffee and donut Stout.

The cause for this unusual derivation from Bunny and Brandy's brunchly duties was dear old Bunny's birthday (they say to never ask a woman her weight or her age, but in Bunny's case the answer to both questions is the same number).  A group of their finest friends had gathered for the event; Bunny's own Benedict of course had gotten time off from his excavation of a Mayan tomb, Bakewell Burgundy had thrust his understudy onto the stage just as the curtain was rising so that he could attend, Birdie and Biscuit Brown had abandoned their weekly CCCC meeting (Cajun/Creole Citizens of Chicago), and Brandy gave up her usual Saturday night spent drinking alone to go out and drink with everyone.

ING's interior is quite minimalist and modern, with a wavy tiled wall on one side, a wood paneled wall on the other, an awkwardly placed bar, and several comfy six person tables furnished with bright orange plastic chairs and benches.  White coated servers buzzed throughout the room, talking into wireless headsets and generally looking rushed.  Although Our Ladies had obtained reservations for 8:00, they were still asked to wait for about 15 minutes until a table was available.  Once seated with the whole party, an order was placed for the Flight of Beers, which Our Ladies and guests were thinking was going to be a sampling of all the so called Nano Brews.  Sadly, a server informed them all too late that the nano brew's fermentation process had taken longer than anticipated this week and the house brews were unavailable.  Instead, the party was presented with 5 samplings of ING's other beer offerings.  While still a fun way to start the meal, the lack of the nano brews was definitely a big disappointment, especially to Brandy.  "I've tasted every kind of beer you could ever imagine," she ranted, "I was looking forward to being surprised."

Next, Our Ladies and guests were presented with their menus, which were folded into origami cubes and hid an amuse bouche, a single shot of miso soup in a sake glass.  The soup itself had a nice spicy finish, but Bunny felt it was a little salty.  The table chose to partake in ING's dine by the hour option ($45 an hour for how ever many hours you have to spare and you are treated to the chef's choice of dishes from both on and off the menu).  A round of cocktails were also ordered; for Birdie, Biscuit, and Bakewell a concoction called The Stepfather (a sweet and tangy mix of amaretto, absinthe, lemon, and whiskey), for Bunny The Kimura (a light and fresh tasting combo of grapefruit, vodka, St. Germaine liquor, and Aperol), and for Brandy, the ever classy Smoked Manhattan (a slight twist on the traditional mix of bourbon, sweet vermouth, and bitters).

Soon, the first course was being presented balletically to the table; a seaweed salad with a Japanese rolled omelet (brunch after all!) and tuna tartar served with sticky rice, avocado mouse, and a sesame cracker.  The seaweed salad was surprisingly sweet and fresh tasting with a lovely after taste of sesame oil.  The tuna was exceptionally smooth and flavorful (even Brandy, who never eats cooked fish let alone raw fish, gobbled up the dish), especially the avocado mouse, and the cracker on the side made for a great change in texture.

Next came a soup made from soy sauce marinated seaweed noodles, popped kale and enoci mushrooms, topped with a poached egg.  This proved to be an unpopular dish with both Bunny and Biscuit, who didn't care for the texture of the noodles, nor the blandness of their flavor.  The broth however, once allowed to mix with the yolk from the egg, was pleasantly rich, with a touch of heat from a few strategically placed chili flakes.  The kale was definitely the hit of the dish, having somehow maintained a nice crunch and toasty flavor even after sitting in the broth for several minutes.

The meat course was next, and came in the form of Wagu Beef, sliced thin, skewered, and cooked at the table on hot bricks.  They were then plated with a savory rice crispy square, some brazed Japanese eggplant, and ponzu glaze.  The beef was extremely tender and silky in texture (Bunny thought her piece was under cooked, but Brandy insisted such high quality beef should be served on the rare side).  The rice square, which was breaded with panko, had a nice risotto like filling, but the eggplant was a little overly seasoned with soy sauce and came off very salty.

The final course was dessert, a frozen waffle ice cream (made from pureeing a cooked waffle batter, then "cooking" it on an anti-griddle with liquid nitrogen to make it resemble a waffle) topped with orange sorbet made to look like butter pads, stout maple syrup, and coconut whipped cream.  The frozen waffle was light, creamy, and absolutely tasted of waffle and the orange sorbet added a lovely brightness.  Though utterly delicious, the confection didn't quite fit into the Japanese theme that had been bestowed on the rest of the meal.

A bit on the pricey side, though not nearly as bad as it's next door neighbor Moto, ING definitely delivered on its promises of innovation, quality ingredients, and a unique dining experience.  ING may still have some growing pains to work through, but in the end it seems like the restaurant will make a nice casual companion to its high brow cousin, thus encouraging more people to experiment with what they think they know about what they think they like.

The Short and Sweet Review