Freds at Barneys or Wham Bam Thank You Mam

The Slow and Savory Review

Whenever Brandy's good friend Mama Bee comes to town, she feels more determined than ever to impress her with a lavish meal.  "Oh you know me, I like simple things," Mama Bee always admonishes her, "Give me something uncomplicated and I'm happy.  Put lots of honey on it and I'm even happier."  But it has become a matter of personal pride to try and bring new and exciting culinary trends to her friend's attention, so when Mama Bee stopped in for a quick visit in between running her empire of bakeries, Brandy knew she had to come up with something spectacular.

Thinking back to a dinner she had experienced last year at the enchanting Freds on the sixth floor of Barneys of New York in the Gold Coast, Brandy suddenly remembered that the location served what was purported to be a rather grand brunch.  "If what I tried there previously was any indication, I'm sure the dishes will be classic and fresh, which might be just up Mama Bee's alley!"

Not wanting to linger too long looking at any of the outrageously expensive purses and nick nacks on the ground floor of the department store, Brandy and Mama Bee immediately rushed for the elevator and headed up to the restaurant, which had gorgeous views of the Gold Coast.  The dining room was just as Brandy had remembered it, with a slightly old fashioned sense of class, but a less pretentious atmosphere than one might expect.  Mama Bee was especially taken with the fire feature at the back that separated the dining area from the kitchen.

The morning began, of course, with a couple of cocktails.  For Brandy, the Border Crossing and for Mama Bee the Gary's Busey.  Both cocktails had been made with very fresh tasting citrus juices (Brandy's with lime and orange and Mama Bee's with grapefruit and lemon), but both ladies preferred the bold and refreshing Gary's Busey, which reminded Brandy of a Greyhound cocktail.

Mama Bee, a native New Yorker, eyed up the Pastrami Hash for her entree, and was especially delighted to read that the restaurant offered freshly made bagels and (even rarer in Chicago) bialys.  Sadly, when the plate reached the table, Mama Bee's treasured bialy seemed more bagel-ish, but was serviceable.  The hash was very peppery, but the pastrami was tender and perfect.  "Just what I wanted, something not overly complicated," Mama Bee smiled, "But someone needs to explain to them the difference between a bagel and a bialy."

Brandy decided on the Oufes en Cocoette, a baked egg dish served with potato wedges and a side of bacon.  The potatoes had an excellent crunch on the outside while being soft on the inside, more resembling fries than a more traditional house potato.  The eggs were silky, but the true surprise was a dollop of hidden creme fraiche that really helped to liven up the dish.  "I have to say that this tastes quite a bit better than it looks," Brandy commented, "I'm rather surprised that the presentation here isn't a little more finessed, considering how obsessed a place like Barneys usually is with appearances."

Lastly came a shared order of Bread Pudding, which had actually be requested as an appetizer, but the waitress neglected to put in the order.  When the pudding finally did arrive, it seemed a little too crisped on top with an almost blackened edge.  The inside, however, was warm and scrumptious and the addition of some plump raisins ensured each bite was a little more exciting.

Though the service was friendly, Brandy felt a little let down by Freds at Barneys.  The price point seemed high, but expected for such an upscale setting, but the presentation of the dishes simply didn't live up to expectations.  The flavors, however, were good, but nothing revolutionary.  "I know you like things simple and uncomplicated, but there's something to be said for a little more attention to detail and pizzazz," Brandy said to Mama Bee.  "I agree with you there," Mama Bee responded, "But perhaps if we had purchased one of those fancy handbags down stairs before coming up here to dine, we would be spending more time thinking about the money we'd just spent and less about the meal we just ate."




The Short and Sweet Review

The Sunset Menu at Freds at Barney's New York

Last week, Brandy was privileged to join a group of food writers and bloggers at Freds on the 6th floor of Barney's in the Gold Coast for a preview of their newly launched Sunset Menu; a collection of shareable late afternoon snacks meant to cater to the after work crowd.  "Well why not?" Brandy said upon reading the invite, "After all, often times my brunches blend seamlessly into late afternoon snacking."

Upon entering Freds, Brandy quite literally had her breath taken away by the beauty of the place.  Wall length windows opened out onto a beautiful view of the city below, contrasting with the simple, yet chic design of the restaurant space itself, the focal point of which was a gorgeous fire feature separating the dining room from the kitchen.

The evening began with some bite sized munchies, like a cherry tomato stuffed with bacon and lettuce (a one bite BLT!), mini grilled cheese sandwiches with truffles, and little bellinis with creme fraiche and caviar.  One of Freds signature cocktails, called
the Wallflower, started making the rounds, so Brandy made sure to grab up a glass.  The concoction consisted of orange juice, vodka, rose hips, and St. Germaine and was an instant hit with Brandy, who loved the cocktail for its refreshing and light flavor that resembled a more floral Screwdriver.  "I wouldn't mind a few of these with brunch or dinner!" she exclaimed.  She also made her way over to a young lady who was pouring up some freshly made juices and ordered up her favorite, a mix of apple, kale, celery, ginger, and lots of other nutritious veggies called the Green Jeans, which was actually quite sweet and lovely.

Sitting down at the exquisitely dressed table, the group was welcomed by Chef Mark Strausman, who oversees not only the Chicago location, but also the restaurant's siblings in New York and Beverly Hills.  Chef Strausman talked about how he wanted to keep the menu grounded with lots of fresh ingredients that would be appealing to those looking for healthier options without turning off fans of more decadent fair.  This concept was introduced with the Raw Vegan Cashew "Cheese" Dip, served with a variety of beautiful vegetables.  The dip came in three varieties (sun-dried tomato, turmeric, and olive), all of which were very flavorful and had a hearty sort of hummus like texture.

Next up were a couple of protein courses; the Tuna Tartare and the Beef Sliders with Truffle Pommes Frites.  The tuna was by far the most beautifully presented dish of the evening, causing the entire table a dilemma when it was time to dig into it.  It eventually proved to be just as succulent as it looked with the delicate fish being enhanced with just a little cucumber and pickled ginger.  The Beef Sliders were a showcase for the beef itself, only being adorned with a bit of tomato and pickle, but the scent of the frites was too alluring to ignore for long.  Brandy especially liked dipping the frites into a truffle aioli, because, as she said, "An excess of luxury is never be a bad thing."

The next course were three of the house pizzas; The Farmer's Market with pretty much every vegetable Chef Strausman could find made into an amazing garlicy pesto and garnished with some goat cheese, Bugsy's Pizza with figs, caramelized onions, and pungent blue cheese (this sweet and creamy combo was Brandy's favorite of the three), and The Ba Da Bing, which was an ode to Chef Strausman's New York roots, with a roasted tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, red peppers, and Italian sausage.  Chef Strausman explained that he was especially proud of his crust, which was made to be classically chewy like the street pizzas of old.

Finishing off the savory portion of the meal with a light touch, the Vegan Salad and Robiola with (yes, even more) Truffle Oil were brought to the table.  The salad was a surprisingly hearty mix of beans, avocado, quinoa and greens dressed with a tangy salsa vinaigrette, meaning it could make a filling meal even for a carnivore.  The favorite dish of the night, by far, was the delicious Robiola, which was a soft Italian cream cheese sandwiched in between more of the amazing pizza crust and drizzled with a good dose of truffle oil.  The robiola was so good that Brandy began wondering if anyone would notice if she slipped a few slices into her purse for later.

Though stuffed to the brim, no meal would be complete without dessert, so the group was presented with some Mini Churros with a chocolate fudge dipping sauce and an Italian Almond and Fig Gelato.  The churros were a fun thing to munch on, especially when using them to scoop up as much of the rich chocolate as possible.  Brandy absolutely adored the gelato, which was a little more sophisticated with its creamy texture, almond flavor, and little bursts of sweetness from the figs.

Though reluctant to leave Freds after such a beautiful evening, Brandy was at least comforted to learn that in addition to the Sunset Menu, Fred's has a full brunch service, for which Brandy is determined to return soon.

The writers of this blog were invited to attend this even free of charge in order to facilitate the writing of this post.